Lido/ Journal

The landscapes of Le Marche are gradual, uniform and mostly characterised by hills. Most of the small towns and villages are located on the tops of the various hills, immersed in the green countryside, amid centuries-old oaks and large expanses of vineyards and olive groves. Many people are still unaware of the uniqueness of this region and the variety of places to visit, ranging from the sea to the mountains, including national parks and unforgettable beaches. Le Marche will allow you to properly feel emotion, discovering the beauty of simple, genuine things.

For as long as I can remember Monte Conero has always reminded me of the profile of a dog from far away. A sleeping dog, peaceful, 572 metres above sea level and at least 5 million years old. When I see it, I immediately get that strange feeling…I’m home! Immersed in the Adriatic Sea, it is characterised by the Conero Park, which offers breathtaking views and paths immersed in nature. This environmental oasis is a protected area where you can walk along 18 paths that wind through the woods, observe the passage of migratory birds, and visit precious historical and artistic sites, such as the Torre di Guardia (watchtower) and the small Romanesque church of Santa Maria in the bay of Portonovo.

A short walk from the central streets of Ancona is one of Italy’s most characteristic urban beaches. The coast at this point is dotted with more than 500 colourful grottoes dug out of the rock which fishermen initially used as shelters for their boats. Spontaneous architecture inserted harmoniously into a natural environment. Many people from Ancona, who are already known to be “Men of the Sea”, are known as the “grottaroli” and consider this mystical place a second home, spending their summers fishing, eating fresh fish, and taking naps in the caves.

I can’t say it’s an easy walk to the Scalaccia beach, but it’s certainly worth it. I recommend leaving your flip-flops at home and arming yourself with trainers. This is a “lunar” beach, very charming, made up of white rocks and a crystal clear sea due to its inland position (that is if you don’t encounter rough seas), set between the Passetto and the Spiaggia del Baffo.
A small curiosity: One of the particular characteristics of the mountain is that it is also made of clay, so it is usual for bathers to make natural beauty masks.

The bay of Portonovo, called by some the “Baia Verde” or the “Green Bay”, is completely immersed in the Mediterranean scrub of the Conero, far from hustle and bustle of everyday traffic. It is not a sandy beach, on the contrary, it is known for its large white pebbles, continuously smoothed by the waves. They might not be very comfortable, but they are certainly very aesthetically appealing. Here you can sample one of the area’s typical specialities, the moscioli of Portonovo. They could be mistaken for ordinary mussels, but the difference is that moscioli are wild, they are fished and never bred.

In this part of the bay you can enjoy the sun all day long, from dawn to dusk. 
To get to the beach you will cross a small green wood and pass in front of the impressive Fortino Napoleonico overlooking the sea, a military bulwark now used as a hotel. I suggest going to this magical place at sunset, when most people have returned home, to take a restorative swim and watch the starry sky.

On the slopes of the village of Sirolo, you will find the Spiaggia Urbani, the Urbani beach, that can be reached either on foot, by bus, or car. From here you can walk to the tip of the characteristic moletto “little pier”, and admire a splendid view of Monte Conero, or stroll along the long sandy beach of San Michele. This place is characterised above all by a beautiful natural grotto that has been carved out by the sea.

Olimpia Taliani photographed by Ivan Grianti.